Thursday, July 23, 2009

motivation

http://www.luketaaffe.blogspot.com/



This is actually my motivational image.  I found this woman's website and I enjoyed her photos a lot....especially this one.  This woman looks strong and elegant.  I bet she surfs well.  I hope I'm in such good shape as the years creep on.  


Saturday, July 18, 2009

Bonfires at San O









I was really exhausted on this day and did not want to leave my comfortable living room.  I'm so glad I did because the water was warm and I love bonfires at San O.  

We had actually already spent the first half of the day at the beach.  I was lucky enough to get two surf sessions.  That's a rarity.  Then we barely made it to the discount theater for an afternoon movie.  Robby called at 3, "We're going to San O with Jim, Dara, and the kids."

Monet has mastered the art of bodysurfing with an inner tube.  Long after I'm tired of wading in the water with her; Monet can be found begging anyone around to get wet with her.  She gets about waist deep.  Waits for the white wash.  Then, she pushes herself with the wave.  Her little legs strait and toes are pointed behind her.    

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Dudes at Bolsa Chica

My friend at work used to call me Bolsa Chica.  I love surfing there.  I used to  surf the most south lot 5 days a week.  They made a man made jetty there recently.  It didn't completely effect the surf.  It's still super fun there (if you go when the crowd is minimal).
Lately, I've been surfing tower 18 at Bolsa with Chris.  She found this really cool group of old men that surf there.  My facorite is "Dusty."  He's the one in the speedo.  He's always telling these crazy funny stories in the water.  I'm not sure if he makes them up or if there are some truth to them.  
Here's their little band.  Sounds good.  I like the harmonica.  I want to learn to play that soon...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUSq7EJQUd4

Here's how Dusty described a recent wave:

"That wave was like when you're makin' love to the babysitter and your wife's at the front door!  I had to get OUT!!"
Ha ha!  He's funny.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

ocean loooove


by Luke Taaffe
Since I'm at work on the morning of the 4th and not in the ocean...I'm dreaming about it. I've been loving all these surf blogs I've newly found. Love the art, stories, ideas, energy...Here's some bits and pieces:
"The muted colors of the early morning were contrasted by the inner glow I had from the three waves that were day makers"...@ http://patchies-hideout.blogspot.com/


"A few years ago a triad of reasons led me to spend more time surfing in one spot than I had in the past preferred. I needed easy access, consistent waves, and a place where my family could spend time at the beach. A nice spring swell had me sliding Civil Rights and the decision was made. In time, I learned the spot(s) and met some outstanding surfers amid the chaos of a very busy break in the very busy city I call home. Unexpectedly, my "have-to" spot has become one of my favorite places to surf and be a surfer. Yes, the surf schools, softboards, and SoCal 'Tude Dudes dirty the water a bit, but what I've found is a pretty rootsy gathering of surf stoked generations coexisting happily(?) amid the waves...


Fade the peak and go right. Cross step, cross step. Hang. Throw ten toes. Back to the tail. Kick out to kneepaddle. .." @ http://btl-borntolose.blogspot.com/

I also love this post:

Friday, July 3, 2009