Since I'm at work on the morning of the 4th and not in the ocean...I'm dreaming about it. I've been loving all these surf blogs I've newly found. Love the art, stories, ideas, energy...Here's some bits and pieces:
"The muted colors of the early morning were contrasted by the inner glow I had from the three waves that were day makers"...@ http://patchies-hideout.blogspot.com/
"A few years ago a triad of reasons led me to spend more time surfing in one spot than I had in the past preferred. I needed easy access, consistent waves, and a place where my family could spend time at the beach. A nice spring swell had me sliding Civil Rights and the decision was made. In time, I learned the spot(s) and met some outstanding surfers amid the chaos of a very busy break in the very busy city I call home. Unexpectedly, my "have-to" spot has become one of my favorite places to surf and be a surfer. Yes, the surf schools, softboards, and SoCal 'Tude Dudes dirty the water a bit, but what I've found is a pretty rootsy gathering of surf stoked generations coexisting happily(?) amid the waves...
Fade the peak and go right. Cross step, cross step. Hang. Throw ten toes. Back to the tail. Kick out to kneepaddle. .." @ http://btl-borntolose.blogspot.com/
I also love this post: