Sunday, April 25, 2010

Surfing Bolsa





These aren't my pictures..just found them online. I was trying to find pictures that felt like my surf session yseterday. There was a little swell. The waves were slow to build, but had some good momentum once you got in. The rides were really fun. Sometimes,I wait so long between surf sessions, I feel like I won't know what to do when a wave comes at me. Then, when I finally paddle out, I feel at home. I think, oh yeah, I forgot how good this feel and why I love it so much. It felt like flying on those waves yesterday...floating over the top of them just before they closed out. The water was green and cold. Thinking about earth day. I celebrate earth day everyday. I love our earth. I want to take good care of it because I love it so much. Things I love about the earth:
  • paddeling into a wave and riding on it
  • walking on the sand
  • feeling the sun on my skin
  • riding my bike and seeing the view of the beautiful earth: the grass, sea, mountains, flowers, trees
  • the good food it produces. I just picked a bunch of lettuce I have been gardening. It was good. I love fresh herbs in food, especially basil. It makes food taste sooo good
  • running and breathing in the fresh air
  • watching dolphins play in the ocean
  • listening to waves crash
  • seeing the moon and stars in the sky, especially when camping in the middle of nowhere
  • bonfires

There are so many things, I could go on forever.

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