Wednesday, June 30, 2010

a poem and the surf

Jonesing to Surf

October 2009


To be honest

I could watch guys surf all day

rubber fish

log riding

fat rolly waves

long rides cruise to shore like vacation

October chill air

smells like breakfast

bacon

buttery pancakes

fried egg over hard

thick concrete pier planks

crustations crowd pilons cram like termites


and every time I do

a piece of my heart breaks off and melts into the rest of me

floats away like an ice rock

peeing out with my morning coffee

polar bears and penguins fear for extinction


I look down at the two below me

round pillow cheeks

limp limbs and lips

chest rise and crash

fish out of water and a little part of my heart grows back

a red rubber balloon that's inflating

but just at the start



(Robby at the pier in the later part of '09)

Today, I woke up early and had the urge to surf. I poured Monet a bowl of cereal, packed my car and drove to Bolsa. Robby and Isaac were still in bed. It was only shore break, so I headed for the pier. I called my girlfriend Chris and she met me in the water. I love seeing the view of the pier in all of it's stature from the water. It's amazing they can build such a sturdy structure in water. The water was textured and the waves were slow to build. But, they peeked up pretty quick when they decided to break. I had a short lived left with a suicide jump over the top before it closed out and a long rolly right all the way to shore. It was worth it just to feel the warm water. I raced home to take Monet to summer camp.

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Surfing Bolsa and other stuff

(beautiful Art by Ron Croci)
I was so excited to start up with the Mom's surf group again. So excited; It was all I could think about. I even missed Monet's doctor's appointment. I feel like I have so many things running through my mind, I have to hyperfocus on one thing so I won't forget it. Then, I forget everything else except the one thing I was hyperfocusing on. The surf was so much fun. We met up near the jetty at Bolsa Chica. Perfect easy-to-catch A frames coming in consistantly. Shoulder high. The sun was out. The water warm. One of my favorite friends arranged our meet up: Jen. I met her last year through the same group. I have a really hard time making new friends. Not meeting people, but picking up the phone or hanging out with someone I don't already know. It is so awkward for me. It's usually the other person who reaches out to me that I become friends with. I'm a closet shy person. Outwardly, I don't think anyone would notice because I love being around people and meeting people as long as other people are there. Like in a group. It's just the getting to know the person part. For me, Jen was one of those poeple I just felt comfortable with since we met.
Last summer, I dragged my parents down to Doheney because there was a swell and they happened to be in town. The waves were big. Overhead. That's why I went to Doheney. I paddled out and I see Jen. Out of everyone in the water, we just happened to find eachother. It was so fun. She is sweet and down to earth. She has two adorable little girls. Monet swam in the ocean with her oldest for over 2 hours on Thursday. After our surf session, the girls and Isaac were huddled in her RV watching the Wiggles. We're going out again Monday. I can't wait. I'll try not to hyperfocus.