Wednesday, June 30, 2010

a poem and the surf

Jonesing to Surf

October 2009


To be honest

I could watch guys surf all day

rubber fish

log riding

fat rolly waves

long rides cruise to shore like vacation

October chill air

smells like breakfast

bacon

buttery pancakes

fried egg over hard

thick concrete pier planks

crustations crowd pilons cram like termites


and every time I do

a piece of my heart breaks off and melts into the rest of me

floats away like an ice rock

peeing out with my morning coffee

polar bears and penguins fear for extinction


I look down at the two below me

round pillow cheeks

limp limbs and lips

chest rise and crash

fish out of water and a little part of my heart grows back

a red rubber balloon that's inflating

but just at the start



(Robby at the pier in the later part of '09)

Today, I woke up early and had the urge to surf. I poured Monet a bowl of cereal, packed my car and drove to Bolsa. Robby and Isaac were still in bed. It was only shore break, so I headed for the pier. I called my girlfriend Chris and she met me in the water. I love seeing the view of the pier in all of it's stature from the water. It's amazing they can build such a sturdy structure in water. The water was textured and the waves were slow to build. But, they peeked up pretty quick when they decided to break. I had a short lived left with a suicide jump over the top before it closed out and a long rolly right all the way to shore. It was worth it just to feel the warm water. I raced home to take Monet to summer camp.

1 comment:

Karen said...

you are good, chelsea. a true poet.