You can see pics of the swell here at the best ever Daily Bread blog.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Blackies Surf Tuesday
I surfed Blackies today with some other moms/friends. Robby got to ditch work and come too. That was sooo nice. We were surfing every weekend before Isaac came around. That's ok, I think he's worth it. And, I love only working two days per week. Anyway, there is a swell right now. Blackies was head high with a super high tide, but it's a slow break. I surfed my longboard and that was the wrong board today. The waves were slow and fat to get in, then they would break really steep . They were really hard to get into because of the high tide. And, I don't like late take offs when I'm riding a long board and the waves are big. My girlfriend was out with me and she was taking off on everything. She's awesome and I was feeling lame. I need to be more brave and bring the right board next time. The sun was out though!! It felt so good and the kids played in the sand and I got to spend time with good friends. Whenever I have a less than great surf session, I have this nagging desire to redeem myself. Tomorrow, I'm supposed to go to this weightlifting class, but am contemplating ditching it for the beach.
Posted by chelsea at 3:45 PM