Saturday, December 31, 2011

Surfs Up Santa

This is our friend Dennis on Christmas Day. My best friend Chris was wearing her Santa hat too. Last Christmas I got to surf. But this year it was a little big, so I decided rather than loading the kids up and driving to my smaller/safe spot, I would spend the day with them and let it be their day. We played all day and had dinner with some friends on our street in the evening. So nice.

Tuesday, I surfed Blackies in the fog with the swell that has been here for about a week now. It was so fun. Perfect, long 3-4 foot glassy set waves. The water has been crystal clear lately. As far out as you paddle, you can see the ripples of the sand under the water and little seashells. I've been wanting to take my goPro camera out just to get some shots under water, but haven't remembered yet...I have some new year's resolutions floating in my head. Just being healthy ones and setting some goals for learning new things and practicing other things more often...

Dennis, the surfing Santa, is so nice and fun. I've been to his beach house in Sunset. It's on 5th Street; the street where we got married on the beach. He said he remembers seeing our wedding from his window. His house is preserved in it's original 50's decor down to the shag carpets. The walls and ceiling are covered in wood. He has yellow counter tops and yellow and teal tile in his bathroom, a dancing hula girl lamp and a stained glass window above his kitchen sink. He collects all things vintage including surfboards and even has a wooden telephone booth in his garage. He has a consta-smile and you can't help but smile back when you see him.

1 comment:

Karen said...

I want to be there, it sounds so fun!